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Dalton Highway, Artic Circle, Alaska - August
2005
Returning from the Artic Circle a family
of mountain goats meandered into my path 150kms from Prudhoe Bay.
I stopped to take a photo and Billy Goat faked a charge which
in all honesty scared the shit out of me. I wasn't expecting Billy
to have a go. I flipped on the bike and gave it a rev, he crapped
on the spot and ran back to Beverly Goat. I watched as young and
old ambled up the impossibly steep mountainside.
Fairbanks, Alaska - August 2005
I met Hideki from Japan near Fairbanks, Alaska. We ended up sharing
a few nights camping together swapping stories. I have not felt
closer to another traveller in a long time. Hideki has been travelling
the globe alone on his Honda XR400 for the last three years. I
have been everywhere he hasn't gone, and he has been everywhere
I haven't gone. We shared many stories and meals together. A great
man with a similar vision. He spent ten years saving his pennies
for his world mission driving trucks around Japan. He still has
two years to go. He has managed 150,000kms with one engine rebuild.
Amazing.
100kms north of Fairbanks Alaska - August 2005
Two new buddies I met in a truck stop 100kms north of Fairbanks
Alaska. The guy on the left was blinded by a chemical accident
over 20 years ago working extra hours for a friend just so he
could perve on the girl who worked there. In two months he is
having reconstructive surgery on his eyes. The doctors believe
that he has a 98% chance of seeing again. For the first time in
over 20 years. Imagine that! Its probably pretty hard if
you haven't been blind for the last 20 years. But try anyway.
Dalton Highway, Artic Circle, Alaska - August
2005
In the middle of the Dalton Highway filthy huge trucks (the size
of some small countries), roar past. Every time I hold my breath
waiting for it to slide over my side or blow me off the road.
If you slow down, so do they. If you don't, they run you over.
Self-timing photos is not as easy
as it looks. Seen here on all fours trying to capture the view
and my mug. Going for the dirty, windswept look.
Dalton Highway, Artic Circle, Alaska
- August 2005
My Alpinestars boots (donated by Mr Matthew Territo in sunny Tuscon
Arizona) enjoying the view.
Dalton Highway, Artic Circle, Alaska - August 2005
Miss Humpalot perched on the edge of the last mountain pass before
entry into Prudhoe Bay. Smoke hordes the
sunlight.
Prudhoe Bay, Artic Circle - August 2005
New wheels for the serious offroad specialist.
Prudhoe Bay, Artic Circle - August 2005
I finally made it to the Artic Circle and I am pretty stoked.
Can you tell?
Prudhoe Bay, Artic Circle - August
2005
My brain is drying up for witty commentry. I filled up my bike
next to a giant Caterpillar truck in Prudhoe Bay. I thought it
was pretty interesting.
Prudhoe Bay, Artic Circle - August
2005
The Artic Ocean laps away at the shoreline on my rear. After two
years on the road my body has managed to dwindle down to a rake.
Note the left hand holding my pants up. I had built a special
back brace made of washed up whale rib-bones to hold my body up.
After this photo, I fell over like a Jenga Set.
Prudhoe Bay, Artic Circle - August 2005
I psyched myself up for the Artic
swim. Screaming and ranting like a caged professional tennis player
before charging into the Ocean. Seen here trying to remind my
lungs what oxygen feels like.
Dalton Highway, Artic Circle, Alaska - August 2005
Charging the home straight in the
late afternoon I settled down next to a beautiful little spot
for a meal. Half way through my meal I noted to my right another
human had also stopped here. But for very different reasons. It
seems they ate a little earlier.
Hotspot Cafe, Alaska - August 2005
Parked outside Teresa's Hotspot Cafe
five miles north of the Yukon River on the Dalton Higway (aka
the Haul Road). My bike managed to lather itself with filth. Strutting
around the place as all bikes do. Sorta like how dogs roll around
in their own crap and proceed to prance around like they're wearing
1000 carot gold (brown) jewels.
Trapper Creek, Alaska - August 2005
Last night I was stuck in a rainstorm
in the middle of nowhere in bear/moose country. Pulled off the
side of the
road and down a little street for 7miles. Pulled into what I thought
was a camping site. It wasn't. Rolled over to the other side of
the road at 2am. Pulled into someones driveway. There is a hybrid
car/motorcycle out the front. I stare at it for a few moments
then drive out. Someone whistles. I turn around and there is a
45yr old guy inviting me back. Roll back. Jose invited me in.
Doesn't ask a thing. Are you hungry? yes... here you go.. Jose
cooks me a meal, offers me a beer and we settle back. I am dripping
wet. Dripping. Balls like a fish bowl. Here are some boots.. (Ug
boots). He dries my boots and gloves...really tired.. he leads
me to a bare log cabin with one bed in the corner. He gives me
a lamp. I get out of my moto jacket and am about to return to
the bike for my sleeping bag.. three huge dogs stand between me
and my bike. Maybe not. I return inside and pass out wrapped around
the lantern (designed for light, not heat). I sleep in my moto
gear and Ug boots. I wake up at midday. Still raining. I return
to Jose's house, dry gloves, dry boots. Shake hands, slip them
on and carry on. I asked for nothing. He gave me everything. And
wanted nothing. Kindness of strangers.
Near Trapper Creek, Alaska - August 2005
The super spectacular Miss Hayley.
We met in Peru, and spent a few months travelling the northeastern
realm of South America. Then she flew out again and met me in
Costa Rica for a month. THEN, she flew aaaalll the way to Alaska
to meet me for one week. Perfect ladies ain't too easy to find.
But I think I found one. Hayley is seen here holding the forest
and the sky together with a piece of rope.
Near Trapper Creek, Alaska - August 2005
I knew Hayley had to go home in a
few days so I squeezed heaps of leftover pasta all over her shoulder
and fell asleep on it. The next day. I was still there. Pretty
stupid idea really. We ended up having to visit the emergency
department at the local hospital to find a solution to separate
again.
Anchorage, Alaska - August 2005
I returned from dropping Hayley at
the airport for a quiet night. I pulled in to get some fuel for
the journey to Anchorage the next day. A local army guy rallies
me from the petrol station into the bar across the road for a
drink after five minutes of arm twisting. Proceeding to perform
some serious moves on the dancefloor with my helmet on top of
his army mug. Funny cat.
Haines, Alaska - September 2005
A giant male moose meanders moose style over the rising river
slurping broadside Haines Road into Lynn Canal and the Pacific
Ocean. Ice cream slathers over the hills beyond. That white foggy
stuff is fairy floss. This is where fairy floss comes from.
Matanuska Glacier - September 2005
I pulled into the Matanuska
Glacier camp site a little after 11pm and came across Silent
Bob (from Clerks) and an old mate above. We had so much fun that
night he forcefully insisted that I should stay another night.
The Brothers Logsdon Spinning Southward- September 2005
I met these boys en route to the
Artic Circle in the Yukon just beginning their adventure from
Prudhoe Bay, USA to Tierra del Fuego, Argentina. Similar route
to what I took but a hell of a lot more direct - straight down
the Pan-American Highway. I would probably to the same thing if
I had to peddle the whole way. They are riding this route to raise
support for the National Brain Tumor Foundation. The ride is inspired
by the memory of their late mother Jean, an avid explorer and
world traveler, who died in 1996 after a long fight with brain
cancer. Great guys with determined souls. Check out their site
here.
They looked starved so I gave them my one and only apple.
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